How to fix a loose outlet (or switch)

We find loose outlets at most home inspections. The fix is usually straightforward; remove the cover plate, tighten the screws, and replace the cover plate. Boom, you’re done.

But not always.

If the electrical box is recessed into the wall, and tons of them are, this might not work. Electrical boxes are supposed to be installed flush with the surface of the wall, or have a maximum of 1/4″ setback if the wall is noncombustible, such as drywall. This comes from section 314.20 of the National Electric Code.

For the record, I should technically be calling outlets receptacles. But I’m not going to. Also, all of this information applies to switches.

Box recessed 1/4″ or less

As you can see in the photo below, the box is recessed into the wall. One outlet has the metal tabs, but they’re missing on the other outlet, so there’s nothing for the outlet to push against.

If you tighten the outlet screws, you’ll suck the outlet back into the wall, creating a gap between the face of the outlet and the cover plate.

If someone tries to tighten a cover plate on this outlet, they’ll break the cover plate.

In this case, you can use outlet spacers to create a little shim around the outlet screw, making it so the outlet can be secured in place and made flush with the surface of the wall.

But if you look at my photo above very carefully, you’ll see I’ve stacked the spacers four deep. The spacers are 1/8″ each, making this a 1/2″ recess into the wall. In this case, spacers aren’t the proper fix because the box is recessed more than 1/4″ into the wall.

Box recessed more than 1/4″ – or – box recessed with combustible construction

If the box is recessed more than 1/4″ or you have a box recessed any depth with combustible materials, such as wood paneling, you shouldn’t use outlet spacers. You need to use a box extender, as shown in the illustration below, courtesy of the fine folks at CodeCheck.